What’s actually in the Lotions P50 and why do they make my skin look so good?
A good exfoliator is a must in a skincare routine. There are many chemical exfoliators, which can be quite daunting. Let us explain the difference between them all. Of course, we will cover here our keystone product, the Lotions P50.
They contain hydroxy acids
They dissolve the “glue” that holds skin cells together, thus allowing them to slough off and renew faster. We all have a natural skin renewal system, however this becomes slower with age, providing a dull and devitalised appearance to the skin. So, these hydroxy acids quicken and aid this process. Once the superficial, most damaged layer, is removed, your skin looks brighter, smoother, and more even-toned. They don’t just remove dead skin cells from the skin’s surface, like scrubs do. They also help you age better by reducing the appearance of dark spots and wrinkles. They’re wonderful multi-taskers.
AHA’s (alpha hydroxy acids) are a class of acids that are derived from natural food produce such as fruits, nuts, milk or sugars. They are hydrophilic (attracted to water) and break down the bonds between cells (desmosomes) to stimulate the desquamation process of corneocytes found on the surface of the stratum corneum, revealing the bright, healthy skin underneath and allowing your other products to penetrate deeper. The most commonly used AHA’s are:
- lactic acid (derived from sour milk) is a powerful ingredient that helps reduce acne breakouts and the appearance of wrinkles and other signs of ageing. It is also quite hydrating and suitable for skins that are sensitive and prone to irritations.
- glycolic acid (derived from sugars) is degreasing and so is effective for controlling sebum production. It can be quite harsh and so is not suitable for everyone.
- malic acid (derived from apples) is hydrating, soothing and increases tissue respiration.
- tartaric acid (derived from grapes) is an antioxidant.
- mandelic acid (derived from bitter almonds) helps control pigment and helps decrease pore size.
- citric acid (derived from citrus fruits and corn) is anti-ageing, brightening and increases epidermal thickness.
BHA’s (beta hydroxy acids) slough off dead skin cells (keratolytic effect), cleanse the pores and regulate sebum. The most common of which is salicylic acid, is derived from willow tree bark, wintergreen oil or sweet birch. Because salicylic acid is lipophilic (attracted to oil) and keratolytic, it is able to penetrate the oils in the skin and clear out follicles of excess debris and skin cells, making it especially effective in the treatment of acneic skin conditions.
The Difference between alpha and beta hydroxy acids
The main difference between alpha hydroxy acids and beta hydroxy acid is their solubility. Alpha hydroxy acids are water soluble only while beta hydroxy acid is lipid (oil) soluble. This means that beta hydroxy acid is able to penetrate into the pore, which contains sebum, and exfoliate the dead skin cells that are built up inside the pore. Because of this difference in properties, beta hydroxy acids are better used on oily skin with blackheads and whiteheads whilst alpha hydroxy acids are better used on thickened, sun-damaged skin where breakouts are not a problem.
PHA’s (poly hydroxy acids) are the newest, gentler form of AHA’s. Whilst it functions the same way, it causes less irritation due to their larger molecular size. They are especially beneficial in treating sensitive skin types that may not be able to tolerate AHAs. They provide anti-inflammatory and antioxidant benefits as well as assist with exfoliation. Some common PHA’s are:
- lactobionic acid (derived from lactose found in cow’s milk) is humectant, soothing, and packed full with antioxidants.
- galactose (a sugar utilised in glycosaminoglycan and collagen synthesis, and cell migration) may enhance wound healing.
- gluconic acid (a naturally occurring ingredient in cells), also known as gluconolactone, has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory actions while possessing exfoliating properties.
The differences between our exfoliating lotions
The Lotions P50, our most famous and coveted products, are the keystone to any Biologique Recherche skin care regimen.
All Lotions P50 have shared ingredients and so shared benefits. Thanks their content of alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), beta hydroxy acid (BHA), poly hydroxy acid (PHA), vitamin B3, phytic acid, sulphur, and magnesium chloride, they exfoliate, purify, cleanse and maintain the pH of the epidermis, which helps to rebuild the epidermal barrier. It also prevents and treats in-growing hairs, and is therefore ideal for pre- and post-shaving skin care. The Lotions work gently on the skin over two epidermis renewal cycles (between 25-28 days each); P stands for ‘peel’ and 50 stands for ’50 days’.
We have four types, for different Skin Instants®; Lotion P50W, Lotion P50V, Lotion P50 PIGM 400 and Lotion P50, and each has their specificities.
Skin Instants®: For all Skins Instants. Great for sensitive skins (do not apply on sensitive areas).
Specific active ingredients: arnica and soapbark extracts, burdock, horseradish and capsicum extracts, and reconstituted natural moisturising factor (NMF).
Actions: The Lotion P50W contains arnica, which has a soothing effect on the skin. This formula penetrates quite slowly, and therefore has a gentler approach that is suitable for thinner and normal Skin Instants®.
Skin Instants®: For dull, mature Skins Instants.
Specific active ingredients: sponge, yeast, walnut, horseradish, burdock and capsicum extracts.
Actions: The Lotion P50V has added vitamins in its formulation, to make this product more nourishing for more mature Skin Instants®.
Skin Instants®: For very thick, oily Skins Instants.
Specific active ingredients: myrrh, myrtle and onion extracts, thyme essential oil, burdock, horseradish and sorrel extracts.
Actions: The Lotion P50 is our pure form of Lotion, it penetrates the skin quickly. It is formulated for thicker, seborrheic Skin Instants®.
Lotion P50 PIGM400:
Skin Instants®: For dull, pigmented Skin Instants.
Specific active ingredients: wasabi, palmaria palmata, complex of fruits titrated in flavonoids and AHA’s, australian finger lime and meadowsweet extracts.
Actions: The Lotion P50 PIGM400 has added brightening active ingredients and antioxidants to unify the complexion, purify and hydrate it at the same time but also lighten the skin, reduce the size of pigmentation marks and prevent them from appearing.
Other exfoliating lotions.
Lotion Alpha Kérato-Régulatrice:
Skin Instants®: For thick and dull Skin Instants.
Actions: The Lotion Alpha-Kérato Régulatrice exfoliates, reduces the signs of ageing and improves the efficacy of lightening products whilst increasing the amount of NMF (Natural Moisturising Factors) in the epidermis, which improves the hydration level.
Lotion MC 110 n⁰ 1:
Skin Instants®: For normal or sensitive Skin Instants.
Actions: The Lotion MC110 refines the skin texture, helps decongestion, as well as plumps and fills fine lines and wrinkles.